Zoë Jordan celebrates the new season by looking to spirited 90s heroes - Drew Barrymore with candy pink hair, and the cast of cult T.V. show My So Called Life for inspiration, welcoming in a fresh feminine take on grunge.
The look’s a little more raw than in previous seasons – stripped back, distressed, diffused, bleached & brimming with naïve teen spirit, just like the Corinne Day photographs referenced during designing. Styles are lovingly deconstructed - like the Wallace & Kendrick – a key knit for the season.
Renowned for contemporary tailoring, AW17 sees the suit reimagined: presented in the form of a luxurious cashmere wool tracksuit. The separates are designed to be worn suiting-style or standalone: the Banks hoodie is paired with Hertz trousers, the Edison bomber with Hitchcock trousers, the Avery with Haxel trousers & the Lister with the knitted Zanzi style.
Embracing the pick ‘n’ mix approach of the season, focus is on depth of palette & particularly mélanges & marls. Tie dye, two-tone plating, mesh & fringing lend a very tactile quality & can be seen to dramatic effect on the popular High Hawking.
As well as our 90s gal, the designer referenced a contrasting trailblazer during her research – intrepid female explorers are lauded. The essential functional qualities of their clothes become design details: Sturdy cavalry twill is used on the Kenton jacket, black marl wool mix is used on the trousers Couloir & Fiennes trousers & sheepskin including lush Mongolian, is an accent throughout the collection.
The colour palette’s sweet & fresh – particularly for knitwear & a tonal base grounds it. Expect sorbet colours like apricot, confetti, lettuce & flamingo to sit alongside ash, stone & black | white mélanges.
Paradise vibrant pink gives the collection a vivid colour pop, while silver accents the collection on the Bancroft, Kenton & Maillart styles, lending a polished effect.